Electrical Outlets and Switches
The rule for electrical outlets is one duplex outlet for every 12 linear feet of wall, because lamps and household appliances usually have 6-foot-long cords. When a doorway comes between, the outlets around it should be located closer than 12 feet apart or you might have to use extension cords in that part of the room. Kitchen outlets are bestlocated above the countertop to handle appliances safely. A duplex wall outlet for every 4 linear feet of kitchen counter space will do nicely.
Here are some other guidelines:
- There should be light switches at every entrance to every room, and, for safety’s sake, at the top and bottom of stairs and at garage and basement doors. These switches should be about 3 feet away from the steps so that the user will not trip on or down the steps while trying to access the light.
- Insist on “intermediate-” or “specification-” grade outlets and wiring. There are also “competitive” grades of cheaper quality for only a minor difference in cost. Specification grade, the best of all, is usually recommended for heavy-duty commercial installments, but is worth the extra cost if you want top quality, particularly in the kitchen and in all switches.
- Wall switches should control overhead lighting. If a room has more than one entrance, install double- or triple-pole switches so these lights can be turned off and on from each doorway.
- If a room has no overhead lighting, such as a living room or family room, wire at least one duplex outlet to a wall switch so a lamp that’s plugged into the outlet can be turned on and off at the switch on a wall near the room’s entrance.
- Include at least three outside electrical outlets (two in front, one in back), and for a large, sprawling ranch home, four. They should be equipped with ground fault circuit interrupters for protection from the electrical hazards posed by wet lawns and driveways, as well as a weatherproof cap that covers each receptacle.
- Install ceiling outlets in the garage for automatic garage door openers even if you’re not planning to use openers at first. If you decide to add such a convenience later, you can do it without having to spend a hefty price for a service call.
- Be certain to plan several receptacles in the garage for power tools, an extra freezer, a vacuum cleaner, and other items.
- All ceiling fixtures such as lights and fans must be securely fastened to the house framing structure and not dependent on the outlet for anchoring.
- There should be at least one ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) duplex safety outlet above each bathroom vanity top for hair dryers, electric shavers, and other personal care appliances. Such outlets will help prevent shock.
- All receptacles should be the three-hole grounded type. These are much safer than the old two-hole ones. If an appliance becomes faulty, the current will pass through the third wire (the ground wire) in the receptacle rather than through you.
- Make sure you allow for a sufficient number of outlets throughout the home, especially for plugging in and unplugging electronic equipment. Many of today’s home electronic items use electricity even when turned off—they go into “stand-by” mode so that they’ll instantly ready when needed. This stand-by energy loss is sometimes referred to as “leaking electricity.” Consider that to save this type of energy from enlarging energy bills, try to remember tounplug home electronics and appliances when they’re not in use.
- It’s easy to overlook the basement when planning for outlets. Consider that refrigerators, freezers, hand tools, vacuums, dehumidifiers, sump pumps, and extension cords all require electricity.
- Locations of certain light switches and outlets you want in special places can be marked in advance with chalk.
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